Vintage jewelry is full of stories, built to last, and often handmade, which sets it apart from today’s mass production. These pieces tell you about the era they come from, the maker behind them, and how jewelry used to be made.
In this guide, we explain what “vintage jewelry” means, how to recognize a piece’s authenticity and age, what kinds of Finnish vintage jewelry exist, and how to care for it. The guide is suitable both for someone looking for their first vintage piece and for an experienced collector.
What Is Vintage Jewelry?
Spiral Ball necklace
saltwater pearl pendant
Vintage jewelry is generally defined as jewelry that is at least 20 years old. The term refers both to a piece’s age and to the fact that it clearly represents a particular era, such as the 1950s, 1960s, or 1970s, through its style and manufacturing methods. A piece that is merely used is therefore not yet vintage: what matters is age, material, design, and often the maker as well.
Vintage jewelry is available across a wide range of price points. It includes everyday silver pieces, rarer gold jewelry, and designer jewelry prized by collectors.
Vintage or Antique?
Jewelry over 100 years old is usually classed as antique. Vintage is younger, but it represents the design language of its time just as well. The line between the two is fairly fluid in practice, and different dealers and collectors interpret it slightly differently. The practical difference is often that vintage pieces are easier to wear in everyday life and are generally more affordable than antique jewelry.
Why Choose Vintage Jewelry?
• Uniqueness: Few other people will have the same piece. Vintage jewelry is no longer made in the same designs, so every find is one of a kind.
• Quality and durability: Older jewelry is often made from genuine precious metals and finished with care. Many pieces have lasted for decades in use.
• Story: A vintage piece has a history, which makes it more personal than a new one.
• Holding its value: Well-preserved pieces from well-known makers can hold their value or even increase in value. However, nothing guarantees this, so the main reason to buy a piece should be that you find it beautiful and enjoy it.
Vintage Jewelry Eras and Styles
Recognizing vintage jewelry is easier when you know that different styles were popular in different decades. An era doesn't tell the whole story, but it helps you gauge a piece's age and style.
1950s: The style was often delicate and feminine. Pearl jewelry, brooches, and classic shapes were popular. In Finland, modernism began to have a clear influence on jewelry design.
1960s: Forms became freer. Geometric and more sculptural pieces became common, and silver became a popular material. This is the period when Finnish jewelry design rose to international recognition.
1970s: Jewelry was often larger, bolder, and inspired by nature. Organic forms, textured surfaces, and striking pendants are typical of this period. One of the most significant breakthroughs in Finnish jewelry history came when the Planetary Valleys necklace made by Björn Weckström was seen around Princess Leia's neck in the film Star Wars: Episode IV – A New Hope.
1980s: Showiness increased. Jewelry was often large in scale, with gold and contrasts strongly featured.
Finnish Vintage Jewelry
Finnish design has a long and respected history, which is why Finnish vintage jewelry is popular both in Finland and abroad. Well-known makers and designers include, for example:
• Kalevala Koru: Founded in 1937, known for its national-romantic and historical jewelry. Kalevala Koru has 19 official jewelry designers. The first Kalevala Koru designer was Germund Paaer. Among the best-known Kalevala Koru designers are Björn Weckström, Kirsti Doukas, Paula Häiväoja, and Marja Suna. Kalevala Koru has produced many replicas of ancient jewelry, for example Kuutar, one of its best-known pieces. Kuutar originates from Iron Age finds in Perniö.
• Lapponia: Founded in 1960, known for its sculptural and striking jewelry made with acrylic, genuine stones, or pearls. One of Lapponia’s best-known pieces worldwide is Planetary Valleys, designed by Björn Weckström.
• Elis Kauppi: One of the founders of Kupittaan Kulta in 1945. Elis Kauppi was Kupittaan Kulta’s long-time artistic director and jewelry designer until 1988. He was among the first to use Finnish spectrolite in his jewelry. Elis Kauppi was awarded the Pro Finlandia medal in 1969.
• Liisa Vitali: Began designing jewelry in the 1950s. In the 1960s and 1970s, Liisa Vitali’s jewelry was seen around the world, with jewelry exhibitions held in Britain, Sweden, France, Germany, and Finland. Her best-known pieces are the jewelry in the Ladybird (Leppäkerttu) series.
• Jorma Laine: Chief designer at Kultateollisuus from 1963 to 1969. Jorma Laine is known for striking, rugged, and original jewelry. His best-known series include Chic, Naamio, and Mörökölli.
• Pentti Sarpaneva: Began his career in the 1960s at Merkkikeskus Sorsa and then moved on to significant collaboration with Kalevala Koru. In 1967, Pentti Sarpaneva became artistic director at Turun Hopea. In his jewelry, Pentti Sarpaneva wanted to bring out unevenness, roughness, unpolished stones, and showiness. His most famous series include Kelo, Kaarna, and Pitsi.
Kuutar pendant
Spectrolite pendant
Ladybug Earrings
Lace bracelet
Finnish vintage jewelry is typically characterized by a clear, sculptural design language, the use of natural forms, and the use of silver and gold. Many pieces were made in small series, which makes them rarer.
Vintage Silver and Gold Jewelry
Vintage silver jewelry is often a more affordable way to start collecting, and it suits everyday wear well. Over time, silver develops a patina that is part of a vintage piece's charm, but it can be gently cleaned if needed.
Vintage gold jewelry is more valuable and often longer-lasting. The purity of the gold can be determined from the hallmark, and gold jewelry withstands the passage of time well. It is especially suitable as a gift or as a longer-term investment in your own style.
Even though gold is more valuable, silver jewelry is often where you can find unique designer pieces at an affordable price.
How to Recognize Genuine Vintage Jewelry?
Recognizing genuine vintage jewelry takes a little familiarization, but a few checks will take you a long way.
Check the Hallmarks
Hallmarks tell you the material and often the maker as well. The most common fineness marks are:
• Silver: 813, 830, 916, and 925. Older pieces may also carry other fineness marks, such as 13L.
• Gold: 585 (14 carat) and 750 (18 carat).
Finnish jewelry often also carries a maker's mark, i.e. a name stamp, and older pieces may additionally have an assay mark, a year mark, and a town mark. Hallmarks are small, so use a magnifying glass or a loupe. On old pieces, hallmarks can wear down until they are unrecognizable, in which case it is a good idea to turn to a professional. The material of a piece can be determined with an acid test or an XRF analyzer.
Silver Hallmarks:
| Hallmark | Period of Use |
| 13, 13L | 1853–1891 |
| 78 | 1853–1891 |
| 84 | 1853–1891 |
| 800 | Since 2001 |
| 813 | 1892–1894 ja 1973–1974 |
| 813H | 1895–1972 |
| 830 | Since 1973 |
| 830H | 1969–1972 |
| 875H | 1895–1968 |
| 916H | 1925–1968 |
| 925 | Since 1973 |
| 925H | 1969–1972 |
| 999 | Since 1998 |
Through Tukes you can find a comprehensive list of goldsmiths' and importers' maker's marks, along with up-to-date information on precious metals: Finnish Safety and Chemicals Agency (Tukes)
Through Leimat.fi you can find old maker's marks, town marks, fineness marks, and pattern marks up to 1970: leimat.fi
If you suspect a piece is by a particular maker but can't make out the hallmarks, compare it with photos of the maker's known designs. A jewelry expert can help assess authenticity.
Where to Buy Vintage Jewelry?
Vintage jewelry is sold at flea markets, auctions, and online stores.
The best purchases happen when the seller:
• clearly states the piece's material and hallmarks
• gives exact measurements and photos of the piece's condition
• states the piece's age or era
• offers clear return and shipping terms
In an online store it is easy to compare different options, and a good seller will help you choose a piece if needed.
Caring for Vintage Jewelry
Well-cared-for vintage jewelry can last for decades to come.
• Store it properly: Keep pieces separate from one another, preferably in a jewelry box in the dark or in individual cloth pouches. Light darkens the surface of silver jewelry.
• Clean gently: Clean jewelry with dish soap and, for example, an old toothbrush. Scrub the piece with the toothbrush, then rinse it. Dry it thoroughly right away. A polishing cloth suitable for bronze, silver, and gold gives the final shine. After using the polishing cloth, the piece should be washed and dried again. The polishing cloth must not be used on wet jewelry. Avoid strong chemicals and abrasive substances.
• Protect from moisture and perfume: Take jewelry off before showering, swimming, and applying perfume.
• Check the fastenings: If a clasp or stone feels loose, take the piece in for repair before it breaks.
• Leave delicate pieces to a professional: Gold-plated, stone-set, and fragile pieces should be checked by a professional when needed.
Find Your Own Vintage Piece
A vintage piece is a choice that combines style, quality, and sustainability.
Explore our selection: Vintage Jewelry, Vintage Gold Jewelry
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Vintage Jewelry?
Vintage jewelry is generally jewelry that is at least 20 years old and clearly represents its own era.
Is Vintage Jewelry Always Valuable?
Not always. Value is affected by material, maker, condition, and rarity. Even an affordable vintage piece can be beautiful and well made.
Can Vintage Jewelry Be Worn Every Day?
Yes, as long as the piece is in good condition. The most delicate and valuable pieces are best saved for special occasions.
How Do I Know If a Silver Piece Is Genuine?
Check the hallmark, such as 925 or 830, and the maker's mark. A trustworthy seller will openly state the piece's material.
Is Vintage Jewelry a Good Investment?
Some pieces may increase in value, but it isn't guaranteed. Choose a piece primarily because you like it.
How Do I Care for a Vintage Piece?
Store it somewhere dry and separate from your other jewelry, and avoid wearing it in the sauna or bath. Don't use chemicals to clean it.
